Filament extruder

Desktop Pellet Filament Extruder, Production Line

Desktop pellet filament extruder's_Bioactive-Biomaterials_Scaffold_for_Full-Thickness_Articular_Cartilage_Defects_Treatment

More than 5pcs can make OEM.
Manual of Extruder Line II
Main Difference between Model A, B and C.

1, Extrude Speed:
2, Adapt Materials,
A,B:Nylon,PLA ,ABS, PVA,PVA,PP,PS and wood-plastic etc.
C:Nylon,PLA ,ABS, PVA,PVA,PP,PS and wood-plastic etc.(Normal Temperature type),PEEK, PEI etc (High temperature more)
3, Working temperature
A: 220-300℃
B: Below 300℃
C: Below 320℃(max 600℃ need customizing)
4, Power
5, Biggest size of the applied particle

1. Extrude Speed: 300mm/min~650mm/min
2. Diameter: 1.75mm and 3.00mm( 2 nozzles)
3. Adapt material: PLA ,ABS, PVA and wood-plastic etc.
4. Working temperature: below 300℃
5. Temperature control accuracy: +/- 1 ℃
6. Power: 150W
7. Power Supply:220V AC,50 or 60Hz(110VAC,50Hz to be customized)
8. Size: 502x135x252(mm)

RobotDigg Wellzoom Extruder
1. Simple and beautiful appearance
2. Multiple protection to ensure that equipment work with high reliability
3. Easy to operate
4. Special screw, high-efficiency extrusion
5. Easy to clean the material cavity and change the nozzle.
6. Able to meet most of the thermoplastic materials.
7. Able to color. It can meet your needs about the color and material of filament.
8. Air-cooling + self-weight traction, making it more convenient and efficient.

Wellzoom Desktop pellet filament extruder(B)
A type improved, low power consumption, with speed control function
EXTRUSION SPEED:300~650mm/min
POWER SUPPLY:220V 50Hz(Customizable 110V 50Hz)

Desktop 3D Printing Filament Extrusion Line
Desktop extruder line is a tiny 3D supplies extrusion production line, it has a complete process that includes turning pellets into filaments, water-cooling and winding.
The desktop extruder is specifically designed for non-professional operators, especially for laboratories. The design is based on a simple concept. A simple operation panel can reduce the risk of misoperation; a well-designed structure can effectively avoid scalding operators.
If you want to produce new composite material for experiments or produce in small quantities, a Desktop extruder production line would be an ideal choice.
Desktop extruder lines include Wellzoom C extruder, water-cooling tractor, and auto winder.
Extrude Rate: 1800mm–2500mm/min
Adapt material:Nylon,PLA ,ABS, PVA,PVA,PP,PS and wood-plastic etc.
Working temperature: below 320℃(max 450℃ need customizing)
Temperature zones: Two temperature zones (Independent Control)
Accuracy of PID: +/- 1℃
Accuracy of filament: 1.75mm,+/-0.05; 3mm,+/-0.1
Power requirement: 220V,50Hz or 110V,50Hz
Diameter: 1.75mm and 3.00mm( 2 nozzles)

Desktop pellet filament extruder(C)
1. Simple appearance, easy to operate,
2. Easy to clean the material cavity and change the nozzle.
3. Special screw, high-efficiency extrusion
4. Able to meet most of the thermoplastic materials.
5. Able to modulate color. It can meet your needs about the color and material of filament.
6. Large-capacity hopper is transparent, you can easily monitor and add material
7. Dual-zone & independent temperature control can meet the requirement better for the composite material. Preheat zone is for melting materials. The extrusion zone is for controlling extrusion temperature.

Water-cooling tractor
1. The use of a stepping motor, with a stable traction speed
2. Stepless speed
3. The water-cooling or forced air cooling (forced air cooling module needs to be purchased separately) can be selected.

Auto winder
1. Own control technique, use photoelectric switches to detect position.
2. Automatically match the extrusion speed of the extruder.
3. The arranging mechanism can arrange the filament in order.
Pellet Extrusion Line 1st Generation
pellet extrusion line

Extruder Line II

Water-cooling tractor applied.

After more than two years, on the basis of the original product, we have made a deep improvement. The second-generation products - Desktop Extruder Line II were invented. They have the following advantages:
1.On-line measurement function. It provides a low-cost detection method to control the diameter of the filament.
2.Redesigned auto winder. It’s more simple and reliable.
3.A variety of cooling combinations(can be chosen). Such as double sink cooling, forced air cooling & water cooling combination, air cooling, low-temperature water cooling (15℃ below room temperature). They can adapt to different kinds of materials.

Water-cooling Tractor
Water-cooling tractor
1. Stepping motor is used to ensure stable traction speed.
2. Stepless speed control.
3. On-line measurement function.
4. A variety of cooling combinations can be chosen. We can provide the best solution.

Extruder Line II+ 450℃

Maximum extrusion speed: 4000mm / min(1.75mm, ABS)
Suitable materials: ABS, PLA, Nylon, wood plastic, PVA, PS, PEEK and so on
Solution of small batch production of PEEK 3D printing filament
Operating temperature: below 450℃
Temperature zone: 2 temperature zones (independent control)
Temperature control accuracy: ± 1℃
Accuracy of filament: 1.75mm, + / – 0.05; 3mm, + / – 0.1
Power requirement: 220V, 50Hz (110V, 50Hz need customizing)
Power: 220W-440W
Nozzle: 2 nozzles for 1.75mm and 3mm 3D Printing Filament(1.8mm, 3.2mm)

20mm extrude screw Extruder Line III

II Tractor n Winder
Filament tractor and winder
III Tractor n Winder
Metering tractor and dual winder

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Noztek Pro Filament Extruder

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Professional Desktop Pellet & Powder Filament Extruder for 3D Printing

SKU: PROCategory: Extruders



The Noztek Pro Desktop Filament Extruder, based on the original design to solve the problem of expensive 3d printing filament. We wanted to give makers the opportunity and flexibility to create filament of their own spec. The current model has been constantly improved over the last 5 years, remaining a reputable classic today.

The Noztek Pro combines a high torque planetary motor and a bespoke engineered screw, offering fast extrusion of just about any polymer in pellet or powdered form. The Noztek Pro is a plug and play extruder, which means in just 15 minutes it can be unboxed and ready to use. Just plug in, turn on the heater and add the resin, then turn on the motor and you will be extruding straight away. With no kit to assemble, this extruder is extremely reliable simple and easy to use.

Noztek Pro Side View


Use & Efficiency

The Noztek Pro will extrude at 2.5m per minute, depending on the type of material you are extruding. This will result in 1Kg of filament in around 2 hours.
We now provide a pre-heater band as standard which takes most of the strain off the motor; improving the extrusion rate and increasing longevity.

Noztek Pro Filamentt Extruder 3/4 back base

This advanced extruder has been tested using an extensive range of polymers including ABS, PLA , PET. PP, HDPE, PP and many more.  Powdered resins, composite combinations and recycled plastic powders can be extruded thanks to our bespoke in-house manufactured screw design.  In fact, it’s capable of extruding just about anything you throw at it. You can also mix and make your own coloured filament, using readily available masterbatch pellets. These are simply mixed in the hopper, which opens up a whole new range of colour options.



The Noztek Pro is now available with an upgraded Stainless Steel Barrel & Screw, specially designed for durability while extruding abrasive materials.



Upgrade and extend your Extruding system with our Resin & Spool Dehydrator, Winder and Tolerance Puller

Noztek Pro Desktop Filament Extruder side view

Noztek  Pro Desktop Filament Extruder Specifications

  • Extrudes at 1-300°C

  • Bespoke screw design

  • Swappable barrel

  • *NEW* Stainless Steel Barrel & Screw option available
  • Filament tolerances 1.75mm (+ .04/ – .04)

  • 1.75 and 3mm dies are included, blanks are also available

  • 45° bracket included

  • Extrudes at up to 2.5m per minute

  • Fully assembled and ready to make filament straight out of the box

  • The diameter of the screw is 14mm width, with a 23° pitch, a 5mm depth and 5mm channel width and 26cm length.


All Noztek Extruders come with a full 1 year return to base Warranty

For UK customers we will ship a 220v unit. If you are ordering from overseas please let us know the voltage and frequency required, as we also keep 110v units in stock.

Noztek Pro Desktop Filament Extruder Kit Includes: 1 Fully assembled Filament Extruder, 0.5 kg ABS Pellets (MFI-22) (to get started right away), 2 dies (1.75mm and 3mm), 1 instruction manual.

New stainless steel barrel screw and coupling for pharma and abrasive material use.


click here for the user manual


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Additional Information

Weight15 kg
Dimensions27 × 80 × 27 cm

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Lyman filament extruder


The Lyman filament extruder is a device for making 3-D printer filament suitable for use in 3-D printers like the RepRap. It is named after its developer Hugh Lyman and was the winner of the Desktop Factory Competition.[1]

The goal in the competition was to build an open source filament extruder for less than $250 in components that can take ABS or PLA resin pellets, mix them with colorant, and extrude enough 1.75 mm diameter ± 0.05 mm filament that can be wrapped on a 1 kg spool. The machine must use the Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported (CC BY-SA 3.0) license.

The use of DIY filament extruders like the Lyman can significantly reduce the cost of printing with 3-D printers.[2] The Lyman filament extruder was designed to handle pellets, but can also be used to make filament from other sources of plastic such as post-consumer waste like other RecycleBots. Producing plastic filament from recycled plastic has a significant positive environmental impact.[3]


  1. ^Harry McCracken (March 4, 2013). "How an 83-Year-Old Inventor Beat the High Cost of 3D Printing". Time.
  2. ^Christian Baechler, Matthew DeVuono, and Joshua M. Pearce, “Distributed Recycling of Waste Polymer into RepRap Feedstock” Rapid Prototyping Journal,19(2), pp. 118-125 (2013). open access
  3. ^M. Kreiger, G. C. Anzalone, M. L. Mulder, A. Glover and J. M Pearce (2013). Distributed Recycling of Post-Consumer Plastic Waste in Rural Areas. MRS Online Proceedings Library, 1492, mrsf12-1492-g04-06 doi:10.1557/opl.2013.258. open accesslife-cycle analysis

Should You Buy A Filament Extruder?

If you enjoy 3D printing and often make a variety of prints, your filament choices are probably becoming more and more important. The best quality brand, the best filament type for your prints, the best deals you can find and the quality of the filament all play a big role in choosing your filament. However, there is now another choice that is becoming increasingly popular – to buy 3D printing filament or simply make your own using a filament extruder. Depending on who you are filament extruders could make sense for you or your business. Should you buy a filament extruder?  This article is will guide you through the questions you need to ask yourself before making that decision.

Filament Extruders – A Short Introduction

intro | 3devo

Basically, the one on the right makes the stuff in the middle for the one on the left.

Until recently, desktop filament extruders were only a myth. Everyone, unless you were a 3D printing Yoda, had to buy filament from local stores and order online. Industrial filament extruders have always been around, else how else would manufacturers and retailers sell your filament? Yes, these are the best pieces of equipment you could ever own if you enjoyed 3D printing, but not everyone has thousands of dollars lying around and an extra garage to place the Death Star-sized machine. But then desktop filament extruders came along and changed a lot of people’s minds. You now had the option of creating filament right there, on your desk, like a baby Luke Skywalker using his Light Saber to melt away pellets into a neat filament coil.

You see, a filament extruder allows you to produce your own filament for your 3D printing needs. I mean, the concept sounded only natural to say the least. Why do you buy a 3D printer? – So that someone else doesn’t have to do it for me. However, filament extruders are a little different, and below are some factors to help you decide.


conv1 | 3devo

That’s some 7/11 convenience right there.

With filament extruders, you buy a bunch of pellets, throw them into the machine, and within minutes you’ll have some fresh, clean filament to use for 3D printing. It’s like having a 7/11 outside your house – if that 7/11 sold pre-heated gourmet food. The convenience factor is a tough one, though, as many people find it easier to simply drive to their nearest store that sells filament.

Time To Buy – If you find yourself in a constant struggle with having the wrong filament, your filament is old, or your don’t have time to order some new stock, then a filament extruder may be for you.

Stay Away – If you’ve been buying filament from the same place for years and trust your filament brand, or you have enough filament to last you for some time, then buying a filament extruder may not be the best option.


Pellets can save you a lot of money in the long term.

Pellets can save you a lot of money in the long term. They also look neat.

Now this will vary according to the filament you buy, and the filament extruder you are thinking to buy. This is actually split into three choices ranging from buying a filament extruder, making your own filament extruder or just carrying on with buying your regular filament. I’ll help you out a bit with determining if buying a 3D printer will be a cost-effective alternative.

When you buy filament from a store it is naturally more expensive than making your own, as you don’t have to factor in rent and business operating costs when making it at home. However, and this is the BIG ‘however’, making your own filament means that you’ll either have to buy a seemingly expensive device or troubleshoot your way if building your own.

This will vary depending on the type of filament and extruder you want to buy. via Kickstarter

This will vary depending on the type of filament and extruder you want to buy.

The graph is just a simple indication of the money you’ll save once you have purchased your filament extruder. However, this doesn’t mean everyone will save.

Time To Buy – If you’ve used my rough template or something similar and found that after a while making your own filament is more cost effective, think about buying one. It’s initially somewhat expensive, but if you do a lot of printing, need specific colors (see below) or a combination of all the factors in this article, it may be your best purchasing decision yet (besides your 3D printer, of course).

Stay Away – After using my rough template, if you find that you don’t buy a lot of filament, or you’re able to find great deals, then a filament extruder won’t be for you.


Be careful. This may get addictive.

Be careful. This may get addictive.

One of the great benefits of buying your own 3D printer is that you are in control. You decide what components go where and what your overall print will look like. Remember, you are making the filament. Whether you’re a university student that wants to include some type of nanomaterial into the filament, or a new company that wants to make a skin-friendly prosthesis filament, the variety is immense. Currently, you only have limited options to achieve this. Either you use industrial experimentation (very expensive), hire a lab extruder (not that much cheaper), or choose a filament extruder.

Time To Buy – If you enjoy mixing colors or want to create your own type of filament, then a filament extruder can be a good option. It’s great if you’re an artist, designer, or someone wanting to push the boundaries of what your store-bought filament is capable of. Some extruders offer better methods to analyze material properties, so take this into account before making a decision.

Stay Away – If you’re not fussy the color you use for printing, then continue with your regular filament. Yes, it may be great having the options to choose what type of filament you want to use at that moment, but if you’ve been happy with the results so far, then outlaying a lot of money for a filament extruder might be a bit extravagant.


3D printing for most is truly an enjoyable experience. However, your filament requirements need to be met first before getting settled. For some, buying filament from the local store or online is just easier. But, and many 3D-printing enthusiasts will understand this, it’s all about being in control. The topics above will help you narrow your decision down and hopefully lead you into buying your first filament extruder, or, if the case may be, save you a lot of time and unnecessary costs.


Extruder filament

Introduction: Build Your Own 3d Printer Filament Factory (Filament Extruder)

Too long, didn't read:

Make your own 3D printer filament !
Cheap and high quality at a decent speed of 150-190 IPM ! (4-5 meters per minute)

UPDATE: Now with wiring diagram !

Long read:

3D printers are cool and they finally start to drop in price. Kickstarter campaigns like the one from QB-UP or M3D are popping up and they are finally "affordable". And with affordable I mean affordable like 200 $ and not "affordable" like 2.199$ affordable. However, once you are a proud owner of a 3D printer you will soon realize that your wallet is far from being let alone. No ! You need plastic filament of course to print those super awesome coat hooks and wheel chocks. Since the price for these filaments tend to top the actual material costs, printing before mentioned life savers is kind of expensive and could become a problem to the development of the ever growing 3D printer community

BUT FEAR NO MORE !! Some clever gents came along - Hugh Lyman with his Lyman Extruder may be mentioned here or the guys over at - and saved the day ! YAY. And there was much rejoicing ! They have built plastic extruders everyone can build or buy at a decent price. However if you are a fellow user the first thing that should come to your mind is "I can build this by myself...and cheaper...". Building at lower costs is the nature of DIY after all.

And much more fun than putting together a premade kit, of course.

Special greetings go out to Xabbax and his plain simple but super awesome Low Cost Filament Extruder !

So how much money do I save when making my own filament ?

Good question ! A lot !

Depending on the pellets you get you can make your filament starting at 1$/kg.

How long does it take to produce 1 kg of filament you may ask ??

Using the build I describe here...roughly 1 hour. (for 1,75mm filament using ABS/PC pellets).

So, let's say on a Saturday in your next workshop session you start at 10 AM and batten down the hatches at 5 PM you could make 4-5 kg of filament, saving between 125-150 $ leaving you with lots of filament for hundreds of thousands of eggcups and phone cases and other useless needful things.

Oh yeah what about the build cost ?

Depending on shipping and local prices, I would guess around 130-150$.

Next step: List of Materials

Step 1: Material List

Except for the electronics everything listed here can be bought at your local hardware store.


  • 1x Wiper Motor (Ebay EU - 15€) / 5€ from the junkyard
  • 1x Auger bit(diameter = 16mm ; length = 460mm)
  • 1x PID Temperatur Controller - DC 12V version (Ebay)
  • 1x SSR-25DA Solid State Relay 3-32V DC / 24-380V AC / 25A (Ebay)
  • 1x K-type thermocouple (Ebay - like this one; does not need to be that shop :) just an example)
    -->!!! Sometimes the PID is bundled with an SSR and an K-Type Thermocouple !!!<--

  • 1x Motor Controller 20A (Ebay)
  • 1x Power Supply 12V, 240W+ (Ebay)
  • 1x Heating band (200 Watt 25mmx30mm) (Ebay)
  • 2x Fans (80mm) 12V
  • 1x Fitting 3/4" US Inch UNC --- 1/2" German Inch - 18cm long
  • 1x Water tap extension - 3/4" UNC threads --- 1/2" German Inch - 50mm long, 27mm diameter (one core thread and one exterior thread)
  • 1x End cap 1/2"
  • 1x Faucet-mounted filter - 1/2" diameter
  • 3x Steel angle
  • 1x Axial ball thrust bearing (Ebay) - Fitting exactly onto the auger bit's shaft.
  • 2x 10mm threaded rod
  • 1x Insulation
  • PTFE tape
  • Heat resistant tape
  • 3x Rocker (previously "rocket") switches
  • 1x Wooden board 100cm x 10cm x 2cm
  • Several screws and nuts
  • 2x sockets (1 that fits on the auger bit and 1 that fits on the nuts of the motor shaft)
  • Wires (two colors)


  • Multitool (Dremel-like)
  • Saw
  • Hammer
  • Drill

Step 2: Base Plate

Take the wooden board and cut away two pieces each 15cm in length (~6"). They will serve as a mount for the motor and for the barrel.

Step 3: The Motor Mount

Mount the wiper motor to the motor mount and place it somewhere at the end of the base plate. See the technical drawing for an estimation.

Use the steel angles to attach it to the base plate.

The motor just has a threaded shaft. For the coupling to fit onto the motor I took a hex-nut with 13mm outer diameter and put it on the shaft. When the shaft rotates and the coupling is attached, the nut would untwist. To fix this I drilled a hole in-between the attached nut and the motor shaft and put in a 2mm steel bolt. This prevents the nut from opening. See the last picture above.

Step 4: The Barrel Mount

Drill two holes into the other piece of wood so the flanges can be attached left and right of the board. Drill another 1/2" hole for the auger bit.

Both mounting boards need their center opening to be aligned to each other so the auger / coupling / shaft-axis can rotate freely.

Fasten the flanges with two pieces of the 10mm threaded rod. The rods must be left long enough so they can be screwed to the auger "kickback protection". 10 cm is good enough. They can be cut to size later on.

This will get clear in the next step.

Step 5: Auger Kickback Protection

When the auger bit turns and hauls the pellets a lot of pressure builds up. In the worst case this could damage the worm drive inside the wiper motor. To counter that problem, we need a kickback protection. This is simply done by a sturdy steel angle and an axial ball thrust bearing.These ball bearing withstand alot of force applied to them.

It works like that: The auger pushed back due to its "backward" turning attitude. Because of its taper the auger's shaft pushes against the axial ballthrust bearing which itself pushes against the steel angle. The coupling between the auger and the motor should always have a little clearance. So that no force is applied to the motors shaft.

Now place the steel angle with the inserted rods at a distance to the barrel mount so that the auger's shaft sticks out for about 3-4cm (~1.5"-2").

The pictures should explain it as well. Moreover I have made a short video that should illustrate it as well. The dimensions of the parts might differ from the ones you have access to. So exact measurement might not help you very much, but the pictures should give you an idea how it should be put together.

Step 6: The Barrel and Auger Bit


Smooth out the ends and the seams of the pipe so the auger bit can rotate freely.

Before cutting an opening into the pipe screw it tight onto the flange and mark the upper area and remove the barrel again.

Take your multitool and cut out the marked area at the end of the pipe where the pellets should fall in. Wind some PTFE tape around that end of the pipe. This should prevent the pipe from turning with the augers movement. Remember the motor is very powerful and if there is some friction between the auger and the pellets, the pipe easily turns another 4-5 mm even if it was fastened with a monkey wrench.

The threads on the flange and fittings are not made for perfect 90° angles. So the fitting/barrel might stand in an oblique angle. To fix this take some washers and place them under the flang where necessary.

Take a square piece of wood and drill a hole lengthways for the pipe to run through. Now drill another hole orthogonal to the "pipe channel" so that a bottle can fit tightly. Now just cut the block in half for easy dis/-assembly.


The auger might be too long so you need to cut off its tip with an angle grinder.

The auger bit should reach up to the heater. See the pictures above.

Step 7: The Auger-motor Coupling

Take a 5cm (2 inch) piece of a square steel that fits into the ends of the sockets (about 12mm edge length).
Put the coupling on the auger bit and attach the motor to the motor mount.

The coupling should now fit nicely in-between.

Alternatively you could use a spark plug socket instead of the two sockets. But therefore the distance between the motor-mount and the auger/barrel-mount needs adjustment.

I went with the above mentioned method because I did not have spark plug socket at hand but I will try this with the next build.

Step 8: The Nozzle

Nozzle diameter:
Depending on the material you process the diameter of the hole in the nozzle will vary and finding the right dimension is a process of trial and error. For ABS/PC blend pellets with a melting point between 240-280°C a 1.5mm hole perfomed well from my experience.

Breaker plate:

Take the faucet-mounted filter and cut it into a 1/2" diameter if needed. This will act as a breaker plate. What this breaker plates does is mix the molten plastic and retains dirty (which should not be there of course) and eventually small bubbles that could occur in the melting process. This helps smoothing the plastic pushing through the nozzle.

Be sure there are no chippings or strands ! You don't want to ruin your printers nozzle !

Take a washer, place it inside the end cap and put the DIY breaker plate on top.

Step 9: Band Heater and Temperatur Probe (K-type Thermocouple)

Drill a 2mm hole near the front of the water tap extender for the thermocouple to fit in.

Strip the thermocouple wire to length. It should just be as long as needed.

Push the band heater on the tap extender. It should sit around the end of the extender.

Next take some PTFE tape and wind it around the thread of the tap extender. This prevents the molten plastic from squeezing through the thread.

Fix the thermocouple with some heat resistant tape.

Then put on the nozzle from the previous step.

Next, take a 10cm long piece of aluminium tubing with a diameter of around 1cm and place it in front of the nozzle using some rigid wire. This gives the filament a nice curl when cooling.
Thanks Xabbax for the idea.

Now wrap the insulation around the heater so that the nozzle is covered as well.

Step 10: Cooling

The front of the nozzle and the motor needs some cooling.

The filament is still very hot and soft when it exits the nozzle. To prevent it from stretching too much from the affecting g-forces when falling down, cooling is very important. The more you cool the better you can control the diameter of the filament later on.

Although the motor builds up some heat and the fan helps to keep it cool.

Step 11: Electronics

Now that most of the mechanical parts are set and done it is time for installing the electronics.
But before, take a piece of wood for the front enclosure and arrange the 3 rocket switches, the PID controller and the motor controller's potentiometer and fix them with some hot glue.

Main power
Connect the power cord via a rocker/t switch to the power supply (Ports L, N and Ground).

PID temperature controller
Connect the PID temperature controller via rocker switches to the power supply.

Solid State Relay & Band heater
Connect the 12V ports of Solid State Relay to the PID (Port 6 and 8)
Connect port 1 of the SSR to the 220V (EU) /120V (US) port (Port L) of the power supply.
Connect port 2 of the SSR to one of the band heater ports.
The other free port of the band heater is connected to the N port of the power supply.

What does the SSR do actually ??
The band heater is a 220V part but the PID only runs on 12V. Therefore the SSR connects the 12V PID with the 220V heater. The PID powers the SSR on and off if needed. When it is on then 220V are connected to the band heater and it gets warm. If the relay is off, the band heaters isn't connected to 220V and ergo is powered down. The idea is to control a high power device (Heater) with a low power device (PID).

Motor controller

Connect the motor controller via a rocker switch to the power supply. Then connect the motor to the motor controller. Use the pinout for the 2nd speed setting of the motor. The pinouts differ from model to model and you first have to find out which pins are for which speed setting.
The two fans are connected to the same ports as the motor is to the motor controller.

Wiring diagram
I am not sure if I am allowed to post the wiring diagrams for license reasons so I will link to the respective websites.

1) Filastruder wiring diagram

2) Filabot Wee wiring diagram (scroll down)

3) Here is a link to the Sestos PID I used.

Step 12: Extrusion Settings and Setting Up the PID

Different materials need different extrusion settings.

For pure ABS a temperatur of 190°C is about right.

PLA requires less heat and ABS/PC blend needs higher temperatures like 260-270°C.

The Sestos PID is able to autotune to the desired temperature.

PID controller setup:

To enable the autotune function press "SET" for 3 seconds.
You will now see "HIAL" on the display. Now use the DOWN button until you see "Ctrl" and adjust it to "2". This is the number for the autotune function. Press "SET" again until you see the temperature readout again. Just after all the EP1-8 options. Set the desired temperature using the up and down buttons and wait until the display stops flashing (~10-15 minutes).

Activate the motor and let the extruding begin. You have to play around with the speed of the motor.
From my experience setting the potentiometer to half speed @ 270°C for ABS/PC performed very well.

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Disposable masks have been a necessity during the COVID-19 pandemic, but for all the good they’ve done, their disposal represents a monumental ecological challenge that has largely been ignored in favor of more immediate concerns. What exactly are we supposed to do with the hundreds of billions of masks that are used once or twice and then thrown away?

If the research being conducted at the University of Bristol’s Design and Manufacturing Futures Lab is any indication, at least some of those masks might get a second chance at life as a 3D printed object. Noting that the ubiquitous blue disposable mask is made up largely of polypropylene and not paper as most of us would assume, the team set out to determine if they could process the masks in such a way that they would end up with a filament that could be run through a standard 3D printer. While there’s still some fine tuning to be done, the results so far are exceptionally impressive; especially as it seems the technique is well within the means of the hobbyist.

The first step in the process, beyond removing the elastic ear straps and any metal strip that might be in the nose, is to heat a stack of masks between two pieces of non-stick paper with a conventional iron. This causes the masks to melt together, and turn into a solid mass that’s much easier to work with. These congealed masks were then put through a consumer-grade blender to produce the fine polypropylene granules that’re suitable for extrusion.

Mounted vertically, the open source Filastruder takes a hopper-full of polypropylene and extrudes it into a 1.75 mm filament. Or at least, that’s the idea. The team notes that the first test run of filament only had an average diameter of 1.5 mm, so they’re modifying the nozzle and developing a more powerful feed mechanism to get closer to the goal diameter. Even still, by cranking up the extrusion multiplier in the slicing software, the team was able to successfully print objects using the thin polypropylene filament.

This is only-during-a-pandemic recycling, and we’re very excited to see this concept developed further. The team notes that the extrusion temperature of 260 °C (500 °F) is far beyond what’s necessary to kill the COVID-19 virus, though if you planned on attempting this with used masks, we’d imagine they would need to be washed regardless. If the hacker and maker community were able to use their 3D printers to churn out personal protective equipment (PPE) in the early days of the pandemic, it seems only fitting that some of it could now be ground up and printed into something new.

We’ve seen a lot of homebrew filament extruders, but [Stefan] at CNC Kitchen shows off a commercial desktop filament extruder in his latest video, which you can see below. The 3DEVO extruder is pretty slick but at around $7,000-$8,000 we probably won’t rush out and buy one. We might, though, get some ideas from it for our next attempt to build something similar.

In concept, any machine that creates filament is pretty straightforward. Melt pellets and push them out of a nozzle. Cool the filament and wind it up. Easy, right? But, of course, the problems are all in the details. Die swell, for example, means you can’t just assume the nozzle’s hole size will give you the right size filament. Continue reading “Machine Extrudes Filament”→

Recycling plastic into filament normally involves chopping it into tiny pieces and pushing it through a screw extruder. [JRT3D] is taking a different approach with PetBot, which cuts PET bottles into tape and then turns it into filament. See the videos after the break.

Cutting the tape and extrusion happens in two completely separated processes on the same machine. A PET bottle is prepared by cutting off the bottom, and the open rim is pushed between a pair of bearings, where a cutter slices the bottle into one long strip, as a driven spool rolls it up. The spool of tape is then moved to the second stage of the machine, which pulls the tape through a hot end very similar to that on a 3D printer. While most conventional extruders push the plastic through a nozzle with a screw, the PetBot only heats up the tape to slightly above its glass transition temperature, which allows the driven spool to slowly pull it through the nozzle without breaking. A fan cools the filament just before it goes onto the spool. The same stepper motor is used for both stages of the process.

We like the simplicity of this machine compared to a conventional screw extruder, but it’s not without trade-offs. Firstly is the limitation of the filament length by the material in a single bottle. Getting longer lengths would involve fusing the tape after cutting, or the filament after extrusion, which is not as simple as it might seem. The process would likely be limited to large soda bottle with smooth exterior surfaces to allow the thickness and width of the tape to be as consistent as possible. We are curious to see the consistency of the filaments shape and diameter, and how sensitive it is to variations in the thickness and width of the tape. That being said, as long as you understand the limitations of the machine, we do not doubt that it can be useful. Continue reading “PetBot: Turn PET Bottles Into Filament”→

It would be great if you could create your own filament. On the face of it, it seems easy to do, but as [Thomas Sanladerer] found out when he was a student, there are a lot of details that can bedevil your design. His extruder sort of works, but he wouldn’t suggest duplicating his effort. In fact, he hopes you can learn what not to do if you try to do it yourself.

In all fairness, [Thomas] was a low-budget student and was trying to economize. For example, he tried using a drill to drive the auger. Why not? It looks like a drill bit. But he found out that wasn’t satisfactory and moved to a pair of wiper motors with their built-in gear train.

Continue reading “Fail Of The Week: How Not To Build A Filament Extruder”→

Even a decade later, homebrew 3D printing still doesn’t stop when it comes to mechanical improvements. These last few months have been especially kind to lightweight direct-drive extruders, and [lorinczroby’s] Orbiter Extruder might just set a paradigm for a new kind of direct drive extruder that’s especially lightweight.

Weighing in at a mere 140 grams, this setup features a 7.5:1 gear reduction that’s capable of pushing filament at speeds up to 200 mm/sec. What’s more, the gear reduction style and Nema 14 motor end up giving it an overall package size that’s smaller than any Nema 17 based extruder. And the resulting prints on the project’s Thingiverse page are clean enough to speak for themselves. Finally, the project is released as open source under a Creative Commons Non-Commercial Share-Alike license for all that (license-respecting!) mischief you’d like to add to it.

This little extruder has only been around since March, but it seems to be getting a good amount of love from a few 3D printer communities. The Voron community has recently reimagined it as the Galileo. Meanwhile, folks with E3D Toolchangers have been also experimenting with an independent Orbiter-based tool head. And the Annex-Engineering crew has just finished a few new extruder designs like the Sherpa and Sherpa-Mini, successors to the Ascender, all of which derive from a Nema 14 motor like the one in the Orbiter. Admittedly, with some similarity between the Annex and Orbiter designs, it’s hard to say who inspired who. Nevertheless, the result may be that we’re getting an early peek into what modern extruders are starting to shape into: smaller steppers and more compact gear reduction for an overall lighter package.

Possibly just as interesting as the design itself is [lorinczroby’s] means of sharing it. The license terms are such you can faithfully replicate the design for yourself, provided that you don’t profit off of it, as well as remix it, provided that you share your remix with the same license. But [lorinczroby] also negotiated an agreement with the AliExpress vendor Blurolls Store where Blurolls sells manufactured versions of the design with some proceeds going back to [lorinczroby].

This is a clever way of sharing a nifty piece of open source hardware. With this sharing model, users don’t need to fuss with fabricating mechanically complex parts themselves; they can just buy them. And buying them acts as a tip to the designer for their hard design work. On top of that, the design is still open, subject to remixing as long as remixers respect the license terms. In a world where mechanical designers in industry might worry about having their IP cloned, this sharing model is a nice alternative way for others to both consume and build off of the original designer’s work while sending a tip back their way.

Continue reading “A Featherweight Direct Drive Extruder In A Class Of Its Own”→

We’ve always had a love-hate relationship with 3DBenchy, the tugboat-shaped 3D printer calibration target. On one hand, it’s incredibly useful to have a common, widely used, and challenging benchmark object to evaluate printer performance and improve tuning, but we’d somehow like to get back the countless frustrated hours we’ve spent trying to get the damn thing perfect with various printers. So, it was with no little joy that we watched the video below by [Eric R Mockler], in which he uses 3DBenchy prints to benchmark his newest acquisition: a new-in-box garbage disposal he scored off Craigslist. Take that, tugboat!

[Eric] is considering using the disposal as the first step in a failed-print-recycling method to ultimately turn the waste back into filament, presumably to print more tugboats. The tiny bits produced by the disposal should provide a reasonable substitute for pelleted plastic feedstock going into a filament extruder, if the disposal is up to the task, that is. Reasoning that any device capable of grinding chicken bones should handle little plastic tugboats just as well, [Eric] gave it shot, and found that the ⅓-horsepower disposal had no problem grinding even 100%-infill PLA prints.

The video is short and to-the-point, so we’ll even excuse the portrait orientation, just this once. If you’re considering recycling your failed prints, too, you’ll also need a filament extruder, and we’ve got you covered with a low-cost version, or a high-throughput one.

Continue reading “Benchmarking A Garbage Disposal Using The 3DBenchy Tugboat”→

Ask anyone with a 3D printer what they make the most. They’ll probably say “trash.” There are extra pieces, stuff that oozes out of the extruder, support material, parts that didn’t stick to the bed, or just parts that needed a little tweaking to get right. No matter what you do, you are going to wind up with a lot of scraps. It would be great if you could recycle all this, and [3D Printing Nerd] looks at the FelFil Evo Filament extruder that promises it can do just that. You can see the video below.

As you’d expect, the device is a motorized auger that extrudes filament through a hot end not dissimilar to your printer’s hot end. You have to run a bag of special material through it first to clean out the plastic path. After that, you can create filament from standard pellets or pieces of old plastic.

Continue reading “Print Your Own Filament”→


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“All-in-All, the extruder is a cost-saving alternative for our 3D printing needs, as it cuts out expensive purchases and deliveries of ready-made filament.”

“Navigating the menu was intuitive and the pre-set list is adequate for the first steps of processing.”

“As of this moment, we are extruding a new type of material weekly.”

“It is a lot more flexible than our big extruder. Quick to use and doesn’t need lots of material. This device allows us to conduct most tests as part of a research projects with other companies.”

“The machine is perfectly suitable for small batch extrusion in short time-frames, and allows you to immediately proceed with material testing and analysis.”

“The NEXT Extruder is ideal for proceeding with immediate testing and analysis as it requires the minimum amount of input material, unlike the other extruders which require a minimum input of one kilogram.”



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