AkzoNobel Launches Awlgrip HDT
AkzoNobel launched Awlgrip HDT (High Definition Technology), a new single-stage repairable topcoat.
Creating a new standard in topcoat appearance and durability, Awlgrip HDT is a high performance, mirror-like single-stage coating which allows owners to protect their boat with a stunning, long-lasting finish, all without sacrificing convenience.
“We’re always looking to deliver for our customers and Awlgrip HDT will give yacht owners a longer-lasting and easier to maintain finish,” said Jean Michel Gauthier, AkzoNobel’s global business director for Marine, Protective and Yacht Coatings. “It’s another tool in the ‘box of paint tools’ which has been specifically tailored for consistent application, reparability and exceptional color retention.”
The new product passed the toughest of tests when it was put through its paces during the last edition of the Volvo Ocean Race (now called The Ocean Race). Awlgrip HDT combines the functionality of a hard, durable finish (Awlgrip topcoat) and a slightly softer, repairable finish (Awlcraft 2000) and contains lower VOCs than traditional topcoats. Awlgrip HDT can also be supplied in any color through AkzoNobel’s Awlmix centers, while around 300 are ready to be selected online.
“Our products are all about making a difference,” said Bilal Salahuddin, commercial director, Yacht Coatings. “We’re committed to creating fit-for-purpose colors and innovative supporting color tools and solutions that meet whatever technical challenges or performance demands our yacht customers may face.”
Available now in North America and Europe, the launch of the new Awlgrip product follows on from last October’s introduction of Awlgrip HDT polyurethane clear coat, which can be used over the full range of Awlcraft SE basecoats.
Closeout! While supplies last!
General: The primed surface must be clean and dry. Achieving maximum gloss and distinction of image requires the primer to be smooth sanded with 280-400 grit paper before topcoat application. Using a contrasting mist coat of lacquer primer as a "guide coat" is recommended. Smooth sanding until all of the "guide coat" is removed indicates a texture free surface.
Typically three coats are recommended for spray applications. Spray applying certain colors may require 4 or more coats to obtain full hide (opacity) or color coverage. Brush/Roller applications require at least two coats.
Spray application: Apply a light, smooth, slightly wet tack coat to the surface. Allow tack coat to "flash off" 15 to 45 minutes. Then apply the second coat as an almost full wet coat. Allow the second coat to "flash off" 30-45 minutes until only slightly tacky before applying a third coat. Coats two and three are not "full, wet" coats. The third coat should be just heavy enough to obtain full hide (opacity) or color coverage.
Brush/Roller application: Apply Awlgrip Topcoat in at least two coats, allowing 16 hours between each coat. Sanding between coats with 320-400 grit paper will provide a smoother finish.
On large surfaces such as hull sides, transoms, and house sides, first roll the Awlgrip Topcoat and then smooth the roller stipple by lightly tipping the surface with a brush. This can be done with 2 painters working side by side (i.e., 1 rolling and 1 tipping), or with 1 painter rolling approximately 6 square feet and then tipping that area before rolling any further.
For best results AWLGRIP colors should be applied over properly prepared 545 Epoxy Primer, 345 HS Primer or in brush/roller applications Awlquik Primer. Awlgrip colors may also be applied over recently applied Awlgrip topcoats/showcoats – consult your local Technical Sales Representative for advice. Awlgrip High Gloss Clear G3005 can be applied over dark Awlgrip colors which have been sanded with 320-400 grit paper. Do not apply G3005 over white or pastel colors. Do not apply G3005 directly to bare wood.
Mixing & Reduction
Spray: Mix by volume one part Awlgrip Topcoat Base Component with one part Awlcat #2/G3010 Spray Converter to a smooth, homogenous mixture. Reducer addition level required to achieve 14 seconds viscosity (DIN4 or equivalent) varies color to color. For standard conventional spray application this can be attained by adding up to 25% reducer using the correct spray reducer(s) appropriate for conditions. For example, if a 25% reduction is used, overall mix is 1:1:½ by volume (8 oz. Base, 8 oz. G3010, 4 oz. Reducer). Clear coats and painting in high temperature conditions may require additional reduction.
Brush/Roller: Mix by volume two parts Awlgrip Topcoat Base Component with one part Awlcat #3/H3002 Brushing Converter until one smooth, homogenous mixture is obtained. Reduce 10-33% with T0031. Overall mix is 2:1:⅓-1 by volume (8 oz. Base, 4 oz. H3002, 1.3- 4 oz. T0031).
It is difficult for dirt grime and grease to adhere to an Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 or Awlgrip HS Topcoat. However, over time, a build up of dirt, grease and other contaminants can cause the finish to appear dull. Maintain your topcoats with Awlwash/Awlcare - some tips on maintaining your boat's natural beauty.
The mirror-like gloss can be easily maintained by following these simple rules.
1. Wash the surface regularly with Awlwash 73234 and water. Regular cleaning will avoid build up which can slowly attack the topcoat, prematurely ageing the coating.
2. Awlgrip and Awlgrip HS only: Solvents such as Awlprep T0008, Awlprep Plus T0115, toluene, laquer thinner, M.E.K., acetone or kerosene may be used to soften or remove heavy build ups of grease and grime, felt tip markings or spray paint on the topcoat.
Awlcraft 2000 only: Use only mild solvents to remove stubborn stains. Awlprep T0008, mineral spirits, xylene, kerosene and diesel fuel are acceptable for use on Awlcraft 2000.
For Awlgrip, Awlcraft 2000 and Awlgrip HS: Apply solvents with soft clean cloths. Wipe up solvent quickly. Do not allow solvent to dry on the surface or puddle and soak into the surface. Wash these areas with mild detergent and water to remove solvent residue.
3. Always thoroughly rinse all surfaces with fresh water after cleaning with detergents or solvents. Latent solvent residue can attack the topcoat, while detergent residue will attract dirt.
4. Use distilled white vinegar and hot water to remove stubborn salt stains.
5. Use Awlcare 73240 by hand only to remove stubborn diesel soot stains.
1. Do not wax.
General: Wax build up ages and yellows very rapidly, creating the need to maintain the wax and causing the topcoat to appear yellow. Wax build up also collects dirt, increasing maintenance.
Awlgrip Only: Waxing with a wax which contains no abrasives or cleaners will probably not hurt the surface, but at the same time offers no benefit. Regular waxing will not increase the life of an Awlgrip Finish. Wax can temporarily restore the gloss to small scuffs, scrapes, scratches. Sometimes allowing the postponement of repairs or repairing until a convenient time.
Awlcraft 2000 Only: Waxing will help maintain the gloss on Awlcraft 2000 finishes, especially those which have been buffed or polished. Remember waxing leads to having to maintain the wax.
Do not wax areas unless they are dull or hazed.
2. Do not use abrasives, scratch pads or polishing compounds. Scratching the surface gives dirt a place to cling while wearing out the resin layer. Using abrasives of any kind will reduce the overall life of the finish and voids the Awlgrip Limited Warranty.
3. Do not allow contact between the Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat and teak cleaners. Most teak cleaners contain acids or caustic agents that stain and discolor an Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat.
4. Do not use strong solvents (e.g. lacquer thinner, M.E.K., acetone) to clean Awlcraft 2000, Awlbrite Clear or Awlspar Varnish.
5. Do not allow wet equipment (e.g. seat cushions, coils of line, sails, sail covers, coolers) to trap and hold moisture against Awlgrip Topcoats. This condition can result in blistering or delamination of the Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat.
6. Do not use acrylic †Teflon® coatings over an Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 Finish. Use of these coatings void the Awlgrip Limited Warranty.
7. Do not “shrink wrap” or tightly bind Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat surfaces with plastic wrappings.
When tarping a boat for storage, the cover system should be ventilated to allow the coating system to “breathe”. Covers and tarps, whether synthetic or natural fiber, should not be pulled tight to surfaces painted with Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat. This condition can trap and hold moisture on the surface and may result in loss of gloss, blistering or delaminating of the topcoat.
Caution should also be used to ensure that the tarp does not chafe against the Awlgrip, Awlgrip HS or Awlcraft 2000 surface. Such chafing, especially when accompanied by airborne dirt, can abrade the surface and cause premature loss of gloss.
Awlgrip Awlwood MA Varnish System
Awlgrip Topcoat - G/H Line
Two component, polyester based, light-fast, linear aliphatic polyurethane coating with long lasting gloss and colour retention and outstanding chemical resistance. Suitable for professional spray or brush/roller application. Supplied in US Quart and Gallon Sizes.
Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat
Two pack acrylic urethane coating with long lasting gloss and colour retention.
Awlgrip Touch Up Kits
Made to order emergency touch-up kits for Awlgrip Topcoats.
AWLGRIP NON-SANDING MIL-SPEC MIL-P-23377D, TYPE 1, CLASS 1 ANTI-CORROSIVE EPOXY PRIMER
QUIK-GRIP¨ FAST DRY WHITE URETHANE PRIMER: D8016/D3028 OR D3040
HULL-GARD W.B. (WATER BARRIER) EPOXY BARRIER COAT PRIMER: D8024
AWL-QUIK¨ SANDING SURFACER: D8003/D9001
ALUMIGARD NON-SANDING PPRIMER BASE
Awlgrip Reducers (Thinners)
TOPCOAT AND ANTIFOUL REDUCERS
T0001 - Fast - fast evaporating for Spray applied Urethane Topcoats,
T0002 - Very Fast- fast Evaporating Reducer and Cleaner,
T0003 - Medium, Standard Reducer for Spray Applied Urethane Topcoats
T0005 - Slow - Hot Weather Reducer
T0006 - Standard - Spray - Standard Reducer for Epoxies
T0031 - Slow - Brush Only - Slow drying reducer for Primer Topcoat Sprays
T0073 - ULTRA-BUILD® Reducer
Reducer: Solvent added to a coating to reduce the viscosity and/or alter the dry time. Often called thinner.
AWLSTAR's unique cleaning formula prevents the permanent attachment of slime and other types of fouling organisms below the waterline, minimizing the need to dive and scrub.
Appropriate for all fiberglass, wood or steel hulls, AWLSTAR's self polishing surface "ablates," or erodes away, at a controlled rate that reduces hull drag by continually exposing a fresh layer of paint.
Many owners report its effectiveness lasts two or three seasons with just minor touch-ups.
HULL-GARDEPOXY PRIMER KIT: D8022/D9016
Features & Uses
A two component epoxy that can be recoated as soon as the solvents evaporate, even at low temperatures (50°-60°F).
Offers excellent corrosion protection and excellent aged recoatability. For use below the waterline only.
Also Awlgrip's Aluminum Label Antifouling
AWL-PREP Wipe Down Solvents
U.S. Paint manufactures several AWL-PREP® Wipe Down Solvents to fit a variety of cleaning needs from wax and grease removal to mild surface cleaning.
Surface cleaners are generally used to remove light contaminants such as hand oils from finish primers and topcoats. Substrate Cleaners are generally used to remove wax, grease or other harsh contaminants from substrates.
AWL-PREP Auxillary Products
AWLGRIP AWLFAIR LW Fairing Compound
Awlgrip Polyurethane Topcoat Base “Whites”
Awlgrip two component, polyester based, light-fast, linear aliphatic polyurethane coating with long lasting gloss and color retention, and outstanding chemical resistance.
SKU: N/ACategory: Awlgrip Solid ColorsTags: ALL GRIP, ALLGRIP, AWL GRIP, AWLGRIP, BERTRAM WHITE, BISCUIT, BLANC PUR, BLUE GLO WHITE, BLUE TONE WHITE, BRIGHTSIDE OFF WHITE, CHALKY WHITE, CHEVY WHITE, CLIPPER WHITE, CLOUD WHITE, CREAM, EGG SHELL WHITE, FLEET WHITE, G-8001-11, G-8001-44, G-8003-11, G-8003-44, G-8004-11, G-8004-44, G-8009-11, G-8009-44, G-8010-11, G-8010-44, G-8022-11, G-8022-44, G-8044-11, G-8044-44, G-8089-11, G-8089-44, G-8212-11, G-8212-44, G8001, G8001G, G8001Q, G8003, G8003G, G8003Q, G8004, G8004G, G8004Q, G8009, G8009G, G8009Q, G8010, G8010G, G8010Q, G8022, G8022G, G8022Q, G8044, G8044G, G8044Q, G8089, G8089G, G8089Q, G8212, G8212G, G8212Q, H-8002-11, H-8002-44, H-8015-11, H-8015-44, H-8086-11, H-8086-44, H-8087-11, H-8087-44, H-8139-11, H-8139-44, H-8208-11, H-8208-44, H-8337-11, H-8337-44, H-8386-11, H-8386-44, H-8403-11, H-8403-44, H-8413-11, H-8413-44, H-8414-11, H-8414-44, H-8424-11, H-8424-44, H-8427-11, H-8427-44, H-8428-11, H-8428-44, H-8429-11, H-8429-44, H-8430-11, H-8430-44, H-8431-11, H-8431-44, H-8435-11, H-8435-44, H-8464-11, H-8464-44, H-8477-11, H-8477-44, H-8479-11, H-8479-44, H-8493-11, H-8493-44, H-8646-11, H-8646-44, H-8647-11, H-8647-44, H8002, H8002G, H8002Q, H8015, H8015G, H8015Q, H8086, H8086G, H8086Q, H8087, H8087G, H8087Q, H8139, H8139G, H8139Q, H8208, H8208G, H8208Q, H8337, H8337G, H8337Q, H8386, H8386G, H8386Q, H8403, H8403G, H8403Q, H8413, H8413G, H8413Q, H8414, H8414G, H8414Q, H8424, H8424G, H8424Q, H8427, H8427G, H8427Q, H8428, H8428G, H8428Q, H8429, H8429G, H8429Q, H8430, H8430G, H8430Q, H8431, H8431G, H8431Q, H8435, H8435G, H8435Q, H8464, H8464G, H8464Q, H8477, H8477G, H8477Q, H8479, H8479G, H8479Q, H8493, H8493G, H8493Q, H8646, H8646G, H8646Q, H8647, H8647G, H8647Q, HATTERAS OFF WHITE, HATTERAS OFF WHITE 4208, insignia white, LIGHT IVORY, LUNAR WHITE, matterhorn white, MORRINSVILLE DOUBLE, NORDIC WHITE, OFF WHITE, OFF WHITE REVISTED, OYSTER WHITE, PURE WHITE, SAND WHITE, SIGNAL WHITE, SILVER WHITE, snow white, SNOW WHITE REVISTED, STARK WHITE, VANILLA WHITE, VESTAL WHITE
Rick Sylvester said:
but they also say that you can't use any products other than their Awlcare wax stuff. I bought it, used it, and it sucks.
Listen, I know nobody knows a product better than the folks who made it, but IMHO some of these same folks resort to marketing tactics that are just plain wrong.
I'm not smart enough to explain why my experience flies in the face of the Awlgrip party line, but it does, and I'm simply sharing it here.
Yeah, I recognize that rash in your photo. I used to have some like it (okay, maybe not quite that bad.) It buffed out no problem. I do agree that you have to be careful not to burn the paint but I'd imagine that applies to most products.
Anyway, even if we don't always agree I still appreciate your posts here. I've learned a lot from you.
Click to expand
If you buff it it will shine because you are likely now buffing the pigment under the hard shell if you've burned through the resin layer. When you then put wax on it it will continue to shine, this is why you can become a "slave" to it because you've now lost the protective resin layer. If you let all the wax get stripped off and you burned through the outer shell you'll then see the discolored areas again. It is quite possible you did not burn through the resin layer yet. It may even be possible you have Awlcraft? Many yards now spray Awlcraft 2000 but still refer to it as Awlgrip, though this is probably unlikely @ 10 years old..
I am not making up the way Awlgrip buffs or does not. I have spent considerable time talking with Dave the owner of New England Fiberglass about this, as his booth is next to the booth I work, at the Maine Boat Builders Show, he was Ted Hood's paint guru for years before he left to start New England Fiberglass.
I have also attempted to buff it. I owned an Alwgriped boat that got winter cover chafe and spent nearly a half hour on the phone with Awlgrip tech support. I also see the local rep at the yard and chat with him too.
My paint was far out of warranty and they could have cared less if I was going to use Awlcare because I had already told them I had a couple of bottles. I was still told exactly what I wrote above and that was, not to buff it. I was also told to use Awlcare and not Collinite despite the fact that they already knew I owned it and would not be spending even more money on Awlcare. The advice they gave was genuine from a customer service prospective. I even asked it they could recommend a "pro" who understood the "melt" point stuff better than I? The answer was still "you should not buff it".
I still buffed it.Though very, very gently. It did seem to minimize the chafe and then when I waxed it, it seemed to look even better, I did use Awlcare. By the next spring every chafe mark was back because I went to light and never really buffed anything due to how hard Awlgrip is.
Tech support was right and they did not have to be as they had already made their money off me. The only time they even hint at buffing it is when it is on it's last legs and then buff it til you finally wear through the pigment..
The magic of Awlgrip is its resin layer, which is thin and hard, but can be burned through. Perhaps you have not burned through it yet or the wax is just not letting you see that.
At 10 years you don't have much to lose, but buffing it earlier in its life can be an expensive mistake..
I actually find Awlcare to be decent stuff (actually costs about the same as Collinite), though not nearly as long lasting as Collinite, but I won't use Collinite on my Awlcraft.
This was our boat on the day she came out of the water, untouched, and after nearly six months with only Awlcare..
The rich probably. Although grandfather Semyon says that in Moscow now they pay such money for work that these four houses cost half their salary. Something is hard to believe. But their cars are cool.
- Callaway driver comparison
- 1994 chevy c1500 tire size
- Anniversery invitations
- Dream moods
- Thick reddit
- Blackpink ages
- Zillow sierra city, ca
- Bluebeam revu cad
- Kitchenaid refrigerators
- Garmin manual
I cry on time, maintain order, blah blah blah. Well, then - everything is simple. I packed my bag, called a taxi, and went to solve my "pressing housing issue.